Sunshine, Antlers and Vitruvian Men

Dog on the warpath at Chateau Amboise

            While a foot of snow was falling this past week in the Willamette Valley, Oregon, the Loire Valley began to show the first signs of spring. The inhabitants of Angers have been casting off their black and navy outerwear in exchange for bright colors (although they retain an inexplicable penchant for wearing scarves), and the trees have started to bloom. It was in this weather that CIDEF held its final excursion, with stops at the Chateaus Amboise (and the nearby former residence of Leonardo da Vinci), Blois, and Cheverny.

A view of the Loire from Amboise

           Rising high above the town of Amboise, the chateau Amboise has some of the best views of my travels thus far. Peering over one wall, you can join the gargoyles in watching crowds of diners and dog-walkers in the streets below; from another, you can find a panoramic view of the Loire. 

In a corner of the chateau, a chapel celebrates the patron saint of hunters. This seems like a strange idea to me, and only becomes more bizarre upon noticing the antlers growing from the steeple, and a prominent sculpture of a stag sprouting a cross between his ears.

            At Clos de Lucé, the manor where da Vinci lived part of his life, the day continues on its peculiar bent. Something about the manor house and grounds reminds me of an unfinished renaissance Disneyland, with its giant banners (albeit emblazoned with calf-muscle illustrations and the Vitruvian man), strategically placed and overpriced cafés, and numerous da Vinci exhibits (which, if you press a button, will rhapsodize about da Vinci’s notes on rabbit fat). Particularly disturbing is the pigeon loft at one end of the property, brought to life with fake bird noises from a speaker, and flashing red and purple lights from several pigeonholes.

Salle des Etats, Blois

            After a short bus ride, we arrive at chateau Blois, which has four principal sections from four eras in four different architectural styles. Inside, the walls and ceilings are a riot of color and patterns, with detailing that looks suspiciously like gold leaf.  Even the floors are multicolored, with small tiles. Someone must have had an eye for color, though, because the vibrant mess of design that is each room is somehow quite pleasing to the eye.

            At the end of the day, we return to our hunting theme with Cheverny, a chateau famous for its hunting dogs and for being featured in Tintin. The chateau sits amid wide green lawns (which we are forbidden to cross), across which one can hear the baying of the French Tricolor Hounds. Although a large sign near the kennels attests to the care of the dogs, I wouldn’t recommend this visit to animal lovers, or to anyone sensitive to the smell of disinfectant.

            All in all, it was a slightly strange trip, but nothing could really put a damper on a day of warm sunshine and the promise of spring.

Hedgehog, symbol of Louis XII, at Blois